Caring for Young Grape Vines
My name is David Handley, I'm with the Universityof Maine Cooperative Extension, and we're here to talk about how to prune and traina young grapevine. This is a vine that was planted last spring. We got it from a dormantplant, or rooted cutting, and you can see the original part of the planting right here.This is what we got from the nursery, with a good root system under it. We planted it,and we had a bud break and some vine growth. This is last year's growth right here. Thiswas a green shoot. Typically, you may get more than one shoot developing. You may haveseveral buds on here. We want to prune this back to one strong vine, your strongest one.We're going to arrange for that to be tied
up to a trellis, because this particular vineis what's going to become our permanent trunk, or the permanent part of the plant that'sgoing to be with us for the life of the planting. We want to make sure it's the strongest ofthe vines that we can choose from. Any other one that developed that's very weak, we canjust cut that out, select our best one. The time of year to make these cuts are whenthe canes are dormant, and this is going to be really any time after the new year, untilthey bud out in late March, early April. We hope in the first year that we get enoughgood growth that we can tie it to the lower trellis wire.Typically here in Maine, we're going to be
pruning to either a four arm kniffin trainingsystem, or an umbrella kniffin training system. Those trellises consist of two wires, oneset at about two and a half feet, and a second wire set at about five feet.We hope in the first year that we're going to get enough good growth to reach at leastthe bottom wire, but in order to make sure it's growing straight, you can see we supportedthis with a small bamboo pole. Any kind of planting stake will work, and we just tiethat vine up as it grows, rather than let it grow along the ground where it can getrot problems, and not develop a nice straight growth like we want. We tie it up, just likeyou'd tie up a beef steak tomato, get the
growth that you want.As I said, we've got pretty good buds here, reaching up to the first wire. You can seethat I actually make it to the top wire, but you can see the growth up here is very scrawnyand spindly, and isn't really going to lead to a good, strong trunk. I'd rather actuallystart new growth for reaching to this top wire for next year.What that means is that I'm actually going to cut this off here, rather low, to try toget this bud here to break and give me a much stronger shoot to develop my trunk to thetop wire next year. I can just take that there, and then, instead of using the bamboo polethis year, I can just tie it to the wire.
This bud will hopefully break, and give mea good, strong shoot, that I'm going to reach the second wire next year. Of course, thesebuds lower down will also break, and if this one happens to be weak, I may select one ofthese. But, if this bud does turn out to be a strong shoot, I'll be cutting these offnext winter and getting my single trunk back up to the top wire.Next year, when this does reach the top wire, eventually what we'll be doing is taking oneyear old cane, and either draping it over this top wire and connecting it to the bottomwire in an umbrella kniffin, or we'll be taking one cane at the top wire on each side, andone cane at the bottom wire on each side,
to create four arms of one year old growth,for a four\uc0\u8209 arm kniffin system. Both systems work pretty well for concretetype grapes here in a cold climate like Maine.
How to Grow House Plants from Tip Cuttings Size of Tip Cutting from House Plant
Okay, so what I did, I just walked aroundthrough the plants and I just took, I just cut tips off of things so we could propagatesome of these. Here again, this is a vinca, before we looked at that yucky vinca. Butthis is nice and green and would make a nice cutting. It should root very well. It's alot thicker. It's a lot greener. We did the coleus before. And this is a good size fora cutting. I might take some of these bigger leaves off so that it's about four sets ofnicely, I mean, two sets of leaves. This is an English ivy. You can tell it was cut before;there's a cut point right there. And so, maybe I might just cut it a little above that andtake a leaf off. That's a good size. You know,
they just need to be a couple of inches. Somepeople ask me quot;how many nodesé How many nodes need to be below the groundéquot; And it doesn'treally matter. Just a couple of inches, you know. Here's another one, lantana. If youare worried that these leaves are too big, because some leaves are big, you can cut someof it off. You don't have to. But if you think that it's going to wilt too much, it willbe fine. And see, this one's starting to go into flower and we could pluck these flowersoff. So that's one type of lantana. And I have another one which is a different color.This is a yellow. And it's not flowering, so, oh, it does have a bud. So we'll takethat off. And then we have plitrampus. Same
thing, like the colias, I'll probably takesome of these off. And I'll take these off. So, and it will surprise you. So we are goingto stick this in the soil and then it could root from the base of the plant or it couldroot from the leaves. So, having a certain number of nodes below the ground you reallyhave to know exactly the plant and where it's going to root and I really don't think itmatters. Here's some bridal veil that we cut before. This one's a little too long and it'skind of wispy. So I might stick more than one together to get them to root. But thisstuff roots pretty easily. So, this one's in flower, so I know this plant, and I knowthat it roots fairly easy, but if I saw all
these flowers on a plant I didn't know, I'dprobably avoid this shoot and I'd go for something else. So this, I might just throw away andpick up another one.