Hi, I'm Tricia, and organic gardener. Grapes are a beautiful edible landscapeplant, as well as producing delicious fruit. Today I'm going to plant a new grapevine. If you're not ready to plant your grapesas soon as they arrive, that's ok, you can heel them in. You can either dig a shallow trench, put the grape vines in and cover the roots with soil, or you can do like I've done and put the roots in a bucket, cover them with soil and protect themwith a little bit of straw.
Grapes are tolerant of a wide variety of soils, but it is important to check with your Master Gardener or local ag extension to find out what varieties will do best in your climate. Your site selection should be in fullsun with a southern exposure, away from trees. And avoid depressions where cool air can collect. Ideally, preparation for planting yourgrapes will start the year before with a soil test and an appropriate cover crop. Grapes like moderate fertilityand a pH of about 5.5 7. In most climates you can plant grapes in late winter or early spring.
For northern climates you might want towait until a little bit later in the spring. Just dig a hole the same size as theroots and don't add any fertilizer. You don't want to get more leaves than fruit! Soak the roots of your grapevine forabout 2 to 3 hours before planting, and then you can prune off any damaged roots. But it's important to leave as much of the root system as possible. Make sure that the roots are loose andnot clumped together. The hole should be deep enough to plantthe vine to the same level it was planted before,
with a few inches of soilover the longest roots. Gently back fill the soil with thetopsoil first. And if it hasn't rained recently make sure and give your plant some water. You want to train your newly plantedlittle grapevine to grow into a big grapevine with a straight single trunk reaching the trellis. In order to do that we're going to prune this plant so that it has one straightish cane. By the second year you need some kind of a support system. This two wire support system is very common and easy to build.
To train your grapevine to grow straight upto the trellising, you may need to do a temporary supportlike bamboo and then just tie it togetherwith a little twine or some tape. These are flame grapes, so I'll betraining them to a bilateral cordon. That is I want a nice straight trunk. And then I'll choose two buds that will be trained into big, permanent branches on either side of the trunk. It's really important to tag your plants.I use these permanent zinc plant tags
its really important to know what variety you have so that you can prune appropriately. Whether you have a big vineyard or you'vejust planted a few grape vines, grapes will benefit from cover cropping. So get ready for winter pruning,and Grow Organic for Life!.
Pruning Grape Vines
Hi, I'm Tricia, an organic gardener. If you want bunches of grapes on your grapevines this summer, then you need to do your winter pruning. I'll show you how! There are two types of pruning: cane and spur pruning. And both of them should be done late in the season, between January and March. We're gonna start with cane pruning, because all table grapeswill be productive with that method.
For cane pruning, I'm gonna choose one to two canesfrom last year's growth on each side of the vine and I'm going to cut the rest! You can tell the age of a cane by its bark. 1yearold canes have smooth bark,older canes have shaggy bark. When choosing which canes to keep, you're gonna choose a cane that's coming off very close to the trunk, as compared to onethat's coming off of a branch, like this. The canes that you keep should have about 15 buds along the length of the cane. And they should be close to the top of the vine.
Don't choose canes that are too thin or too thick. Choose them when they're about pencil size. I'm gonna tag the canes that I'm gonna keep with this ribbon, and I'm going to cut the rest. I want to make sure and not cut a good cane. These are the 2 fruiting canes that I'm going to keep. For every fruiting cane that I keep, I'm going to cut another cane into a renewal spur. A renewal spur is a cane cut to 2 buds and these buds are going to create next year's fruiting canes. If your cut starts to bleed, don't worry, that's normal. It won't hurt the vine.
After seeing how this vine is shaping up, I don't think I need this cane after all. So you're gonna cut your fruiting cane back to about 15 buds. And if you have any lateral branches coming off this cane, that's the time you would cut them. For grape vines growing on arbors, the first thing you're gonna do is cut off any suckers that are coming offthe main vine or cordon. And then you just want to cane prune. You want to keep one cane and one renewal spur for every 1 2 feet of cordon. This grapevine has been neglected and hasn't been pruned in a couple of years.
So, before I actually start the spur pruning, I'm going to clean it up. Typically, spur prune varieties are trained to a bilateral cordon, which are these thick branches on either side of the trunk. These cordons can be pruned to length, but they're never pruned all the way off, back to the trunk. Mine are maintained at about 3.5 feet. A spur is last year's growth, cut back to 2 buds. Ideally, you're gonna want 7 spurs on each cordon. And on this cordon, I'll probably get close.
On the other cordons, I'll have to wait until next year because this vine was neglected. The canes that make the best spurs are the ones that are going upward, close to the cordon. Prune all the canes to spurs and then select the best 7 for each cordon. Ideally the spurs should be spaced about 6 inches apart. Don't worry if they're not, just strive for some nice spacing between the 7 spurs on each cordon. Even though this is a nice cane, it's growing too far from the cordon, so I'm gonna snip it off. Tame your grapes and Grow Organic for Life!.
David Handley: I'm David Handley with theUniversity of Maine Cooperative Extension. Today we're going to talk about planting yourblueberries. Now, we've got the site all ready and youcan see our previous tutorial for information on that. Now it's time to put these in theground. The best time to plant your blueberries is in the early spring. You don't have towait until things are too warm. They can go in the ground just as soon as you can workthat soil up without it being too terribly muddy. So wait for the soil to dry out a bit,but that's the time to plant your blueberries.
Now typically what we get from a nursery isa one or two year old plant. It will be about this size, somewhere between a foot and twofeet tall with hopefully a nice, good root system down at the bottom. We can buy theseeither bare root, as you see here, or sometimes you can buy them in pots, too, if you're justbuying them from a local garden center. It doesn't matter. Both plants will work perfectlywell. If you're buying plants in quantity, the bare root is a cheaper way to go. So with this, we just want to unwrap themwhen they come wrapped up like this. You can see we've got a nice, fine root system hereready to go. If it looks a little compacted,
don't be afraid to work your fingers in thereand loosen things up a bit and get that ready to plant and ready to go. Now we want to dig a good sized hole for ablueberry plant. You can see here, I've got a ten dollar hole for a five dollar plant.That's exactly what we want to have here. We're going to take the soil out of thereand we're going to blend this soil one to one with some good source of organic matter.I like to use peat moss. It can be a little expensive if you're putting a lot of plantsin the ground. As we talked about in our previous tutorial,you can also use compost if you like. Just
be aware that the PH of the compost may bea little high for blueberries. You want to keep this PH about 4.8 to 5.2. The soil I've dug out of this hole, I justwant to blend it one to one with that peat moss. Just work that peat moss nicely intothe soil. And then that is what I'm going to backfill with. I put my plant in the hole. I spread the rootsout a little bit and I want to plant this plant at the same depth it was in the nursery.In other words, I want the soil to come right up to the top of the plant, maybe just a hairdeeper. But we don't need to plant it too
terribly deep. I'm going to fill a little of this blend backin to get this to the height I want it. Spread those roots out a bit. Break up any crustthat might be at the top. If it's got a little crown that's developed at the top, break thatdown because that can work as a wick and actually if that gets above the soil it can actuallydry the root system out, acting like a wick like that. We break that down, loosen those roots upwithout tearing them too badly, then backfill with our blend. Add a little more peat mosshere. Just backfill with that and just press
that down in place. Make sure the soil isnice and packed around it. We don't want to leave that part of the plant popped up, likeI said, because that will dry it out. When we've pressed this soil around we wantto end it such that you have a little bit of a dish going around the bush, a littlebit of a depression. The reason we're doing this is so that when we water this plant inthe water will collect there. Nice and firm around there. Just again, justbuild that soil up and a little bit of a dish around there. And then we can just water thatplant in. Make sure it's getting a good drink. Comeback after this water is soaked in. Give it