Home Vineyard Growing Wine Grapes at Home
Hello and welcome to my home vineyard Let's get a lay of the land. As you can see thisis just a simple side yard it's got about 55 feet of space long twentysix feet of space wide we elected to go with twenty twofoot long rows northsouth facing uh. the rows are spaced about five feet apartto give us ample space for the vines to grow
and for us to manage and walk through we are planting about four plants per row to give it plenty of space to spread out and grow for the rows, we used uh. just simple fenceposts these are eightfoot fence post sunk about threefeet deep we tried to go about two feet deep butit wasn't uh. it just simply wasn't stable enough so we went that extra foot for stability
the wire is fourteen gauge wire uh. we elected to go with the verticaltrellising partly because it was easier and partlybecause uh. the north south facing rows, it allow it to get sun at all hours of the day uh. we have a drip irrigation linesran along the bottom we will be using half gallon per hour drips two per plant that allows us to adjust the water
water flow and manage the irrigation a littleeasier than if we used a heavier flow we'll actually be planting syrah grapes because we tend to be in a warmer, drier climateduring the summer doing something like pinot noirwould require greater cooler temperatures. that sort of thing that's our vineyard. We'll be planting the grapes nextweek and we'll come back then.
Pruning a TwoYear Old Peach Tree
Moving on to older trees, these trees havebeen in the ground for two years and are starting their third growing season. We start our trainingand pruning. Look at the center of the tree. The first thing we must do is identify ourprimary scaffold branches. We have one, two, three, and four. If you want to maintain thisscaffold branch growth out at approximately a fortyfive degree angle, so they can toleratefruit crop load. The first thing we'll do is identify this scaffold branch that'scoming out right here. So, we want to get rid of competition using loppers. And you'llnotice that as we're using larger trees we use, are using loppers now. Loppers, thesehave thirtytwo inch handles. Again they are
bypass pruners similar to our hand shearsthat we were using, but they allow us to cut larger growth within the tree. So, as we lookat the scaffold branch coming out, we're maintaining the fortyfive degree angle. We'llcome in and head this one an outward growing bud. Again, we've made that heading cutto stiffen this branch to tower a fruit load as well as to encourage more branching backin here in which you will have the fruit in coming years. We'll get rid of growth that'sgrowing on the bottom of this branch that will be shaded. So we would cut the underneathbranch we cut out. Anything growing on top of the branch we'll also eliminate thatwill be shading other growth. Branches coming
out we maintain from the side here to be fruitywith. We'll maintain them. With your odd branch, we'll cut them back by about a thirdas well, so that we can maintain the fruit load on these stiffened branches. Okay, thisscaffold branch coming out as well. We have a heading cut that was made there. We havethree very vigorous branches at the tip. We will select that down to one with the branchgrowing in the orientation in the direction that we would want. So, we eliminate the competitionthere. Growth growing underneath we'll get rid of that will be shaded. And then the growthgrowing on top that would be shading, we also remove. These scaffold branches coming up,again we will cut to an outward growing bud
to maintain the growth of that branch. Thisscaffold branch over here that's coming out, we need to fork them when we move fromthe tree. In order to fill our lot of space of sixteen to eighteen foot between trees,we'll have our scaffold branch coming out. And then we allow it to a fork in two directionsso it can fill a greater area. So, we have our scaffold branch here with a fork in itcoming up in this direction. Eliminate the competition coming out. Cut the branches underneaththat are being shaded, and those on top that are shading. And continuing up, we will cutto an outward growing branch to maintain the growth of this scaffold branch.
Yet with this tree we have a scaffold branchcoming out. This is a little too upright. It's going to the wind, so we need to directthis one more outward. So, that we have, maintain the open center, light in the center of thetree. Again we get rid of growth underneath and that growing on top. What we also needto do is the red wood, which is the most productive wood, we need to come back and cut those backby a third, to stiffen those branch, branches and to eliminate excess of flowers. On peach trees, one of the things that determineswhere we will make our cuts is where the fruit is formed. If we were to look at our maturepeach tree, we are looking at shoots that
are eighteen to twentyfour inches long, arered in color. For the eastern peach varieties, we have a very high bloom density, which meanswe have many flowers onto the tree, which will allow us to lose some for frost and freezeand still have a full crop. If we were to look at a shoot like this, approximately eighteeninches long, it has approximately thirtyfive flower buds on it. When in actuality thisbranch could only support at the most four peaches. If we were to look closely at thepeach shoot, at every node if you will, there is a bud. If there is only one bud at thatnode, that is going to be a leaf bud. Each node will have at least one leaf bud. Butif we look at other ones, we may have two
Fruit Tree Pruning The Family Plot
Alright, Mister D. How about pruning fruit trees,you're starting to get that call at the office. It's time. It's time now. It's time to do it. I usually, you know, say waituntil winter chill requirement is satisfied and I think wecan safely that winter chill
requirement on all of our fruitshave been satisfied this year. (Chris) I think they have been. Usually around the middle ofMarch is a pretty good target date, so we're there and youknow it's very important to go out there andprune fruit trees. We do a much better jobat pruning fruit trees than Mother Nature. (Chris) Mhm.
Mother Nature, you know,somebody's gonna prune 'em, either you or Mother Natureand if Mother Nature does it, she'll break the treesdown and she's pretty brutal. I mean, I know, that when peoplesee me prune a fruit tree, they think I'm brutal, butMother Nature is more brutal than me. And I've seen youprune fruit trees. I think youare brutal.
And I've hadpeople stop me and go, quot;Okay, that's enough, I think I've got the idea, I got the ideaquot;. But, you know, it's like cutting hair, you know, I usedto clip show steers, and if you cut toomuch off it'll grow back. And, you know,except for my situation. That may notbe the case.
But, with fruit trees, it's veryimportant to, you know, there are differentways to prune fruit trees. Peaches, plums, andnectarines we recommend pruning to the open center system. You open up center of the treeso light can get to the tree and the fruit and also so you'll have good air drainage. So it's called the open center to the vase system. Three or four main scaffold, main scaffold limbs
is what you need. Prune it to so that's it'sno taller than eight feet. You wanna be ableto work peach, plum, and nectarinetrees from the ground, as youpossibly can. You take off any limbs growingback towards the center and you know, thin it out, limbs,if you have too many limbs. You know, that's just, and thenalso while you're doing that,