Caring for Young Grape Vines
My name is David Handley, I'm with the Universityof Maine Cooperative Extension, and we're here to talk about how to prune and traina young grapevine. This is a vine that was planted last spring. We got it from a dormantplant, or rooted cutting, and you can see the original part of the planting right here.This is what we got from the nursery, with a good root system under it. We planted it,and we had a bud break and some vine growth. This is last year's growth right here. Thiswas a green shoot. Typically, you may get more than one shoot developing. You may haveseveral buds on here. We want to prune this back to one strong vine, your strongest one.We're going to arrange for that to be tied
up to a trellis, because this particular vineis what's going to become our permanent trunk, or the permanent part of the plant that'sgoing to be with us for the life of the planting. We want to make sure it's the strongest ofthe vines that we can choose from. Any other one that developed that's very weak, we canjust cut that out, select our best one. The time of year to make these cuts are whenthe canes are dormant, and this is going to be really any time after the new year, untilthey bud out in late March, early April. We hope in the first year that we get enoughgood growth that we can tie it to the lower trellis wire.Typically here in Maine, we're going to be
pruning to either a four arm kniffin trainingsystem, or an umbrella kniffin training system. Those trellises consist of two wires, oneset at about two and a half feet, and a second wire set at about five feet.We hope in the first year that we're going to get enough good growth to reach at leastthe bottom wire, but in order to make sure it's growing straight, you can see we supportedthis with a small bamboo pole. Any kind of planting stake will work, and we just tiethat vine up as it grows, rather than let it grow along the ground where it can getrot problems, and not develop a nice straight growth like we want. We tie it up, just likeyou'd tie up a beef steak tomato, get the
growth that you want.As I said, we've got pretty good buds here, reaching up to the first wire. You can seethat I actually make it to the top wire, but you can see the growth up here is very scrawnyand spindly, and isn't really going to lead to a good, strong trunk. I'd rather actuallystart new growth for reaching to this top wire for next year.What that means is that I'm actually going to cut this off here, rather low, to try toget this bud here to break and give me a much stronger shoot to develop my trunk to thetop wire next year. I can just take that there, and then, instead of using the bamboo polethis year, I can just tie it to the wire.
This bud will hopefully break, and give mea good, strong shoot, that I'm going to reach the second wire next year. Of course, thesebuds lower down will also break, and if this one happens to be weak, I may select one ofthese. But, if this bud does turn out to be a strong shoot, I'll be cutting these offnext winter and getting my single trunk back up to the top wire.Next year, when this does reach the top wire, eventually what we'll be doing is taking oneyear old cane, and either draping it over this top wire and connecting it to the bottomwire in an umbrella kniffin, or we'll be taking one cane at the top wire on each side, andone cane at the bottom wire on each side,
to create four arms of one year old growth,for a four\uc0\u8209 arm kniffin system. Both systems work pretty well for concretetype grapes here in a cold climate like Maine.
How to Prune Grapes Summer
Hi, I'm Tricia, a California organic gardener and today we're going to talk about summer maintenance for your table grapes we've had an extremely wet season thisyear and my table grapes have gone bonkers I'm growing four different types of tablegrapes here and there's a lot of vegetative growth making for a very densecanopy over the grape vines earlier in the spring, the shoots were thinned when they were about six to twelve inches long you should have about six to eightshoots per foot of canopy at the same time as thinning the shoots, I also cut the suckers off at the trunk
and i'm going to continue to trim these suckers throughout the season, as necessary you see there's not enough sunlight getting into this little fruit clusters the sunlight is what helps improve theflavor and the quality of the fruit by having so much foliage around thecluster, I'm also at risk for disease the first step is to take these long shoots and tuck them into the trellising and keep them out of the fruiting zone that helped a lot but you can see there'sstill a lot of hanging vines I'm going to trim back this shoot that has no clusters on it
if you're going to trim back a shoot that has clusters, be sure and leave about 1517 fullsized leaves before you make your cut cut as little as possible and try to cut atthe point where the leaves are half the size of the mature leaves these smaller leaves haven't startedproducing food yet so the vine won't miss them as much asit would miss these larger food producing leaves the grape vines are looking a lot better the cutting is going to stimulate the growth so you don't want to do this too late in the season if the fruit is just beginning to ripen,it's too late to cut
now that I've tamed the vines, it's time to thin the fruit cluster thin when the fruit has just setand before it gets too big for goodsized table grapes leave onecluster per shoot in order to improve the size of thegrapes, snip off the very bottom of the cluster I'm happy to have completed my summermaintenence on my table grape vines now I look forward to grape jam, grape jelly,grape juice, and those frozen grape treats so enjoy your grape vines and Grow Organic for Life!.
Backyard vineyard Slow Turtle Nerinda and Joel Pennington
The Penningtons don't haveto hit the road to visit a vineyard. In fact, all they have to do is stepout the back door to watch grapes ripen into their signature wine, Slow Turtle.It all started in 2012 when they bought a housethat came with a neglected microvineyard. When we came here,there was a sixfoot cyclone fence surrounding the vineyard.And deer would jump in and get a little confused and bounce around. We didn't realize how much work, actually, it was going to take to get itto where it is, but we're certainly
excited we didn't pull them out becausethis space has become the heart of the home. To learn more about making wine,and viticulture, he enrolled in Texas Tech'sonline and handson Texas Winemaking Certificate Program, but first,they overhauled the landscaping, and built stylish deerproofingthat lets in light and promotes airflow. Joel We wanted to make the vineyardvisible from the rest of the property, to be able to see in, and not have itbe a closed wall, so we used
the fourinch bull wire fence,which has pretty good visibility but it keeps some of the critters out. His grapes are Champanel, a hybrid that's resistantto Pierce's Disease. Joel When we moved over to this newtrellis system, which is called VSP, vertical shoot positioning,the notion there is to be able to let the shoots grow up,straight up, and then they'll go ahead and wrap down the top of the rows.You can see on the cordons, which are the arms of the vines, that they havea single wire that they're affixed to,
so that's called the cordon wire.And the other wires that we have in pairs going up are called fruiting wires.And I have to do a couple prunings per year,because these vines are pretty vigorous. I'll actually come out here a couple timesa year and do what is called leaf pulling. So I'll pull some leavesin the fruiting zone, just so that the grapes can getgood exposure to light and air as well. All those leaves headto the compost pile. Later, Joel mines it forfree, natural fertilizer.
We get the children involved,because there's a lot of cleaning up, especially in Fall, whenthe leaves are falling, this is covered in leaves,and it's a lot of work, it's not simply just getting one personto rake up the leaves. So all four of us get involvedand make a pile at the back of the vineyardand the children enjoy throwing them around and jumping in them. Despite good ventilation, rain bombs are moredestructive than drought.
Joel We have a drip line in place.I guess in a typical year, we go ahead and water about twice a week,through probably harvest, and then we would drop that down to once a week,just so that the vines and the cordons have a chance to harden a little bit.This year I haven't watered at all, I haven't needed to, in fact,I have more water than I can use, and that's indicativewith some of the grapes splitting and you see some rot as well.It also helps to come out here on a regular basis and pick the grapesthat are splitting so that they