Grapes Tree Pic

Growing Grapes

We have plenty of wild concord grapes on ourproperty. However, the insurance company doesn't approve of our harvesting methods so it'sprobably best to plant some cultivated grapes. When I cleared the land for the greenhouse,it left plenty of area to plant various fruit producing plants which don't need the greenhouseto thrive. Plus why waste the space just growing grassé Taking a look at my 3rd grade drawing skills,I'm going to set three 4x4x10' treated posts 34 feet into the ground and space them 24'apart. This will allow for 8 plants in the space. Then I'll string 12 gauge galvanizedwire starting with the first wire 4246quot; from

the ground, then space the other two 12quot; apart.The plants can be spaced 6' apart and over time the vines can be trained along the 3wires. I had planned to set the posts first in theevent that I hit any large rocks while digging, however I blew a seal on the backhoe and hadto find some parts for it. So I took my chances and put the plants in first. The row shouldgo in a straight line and a 100' tape measure works well for marking out the locations ofeach post and plant. Jamming a piece of survey's tape at each mark does the trick. We're goingoldschool and using a pickaxe and shovel and digging a hole about 1 foot deep. Luckilythere weren't any large rocks in the way just

a few roots and small stones that the pickaxewas able to pluck out. Later, looking at the post holes, you'll see why I didn't dig themby hand. Planting the vines is fairly easy. I got theseseedless concord grapes from Gurney's for half price. I just remove the fiber that'sused for keeping the roots damp, spread out the roots a bit, and set it in the hole sothat all the roots that emerge from the vine will be just below the finished level of thesoil. All the dirt that came out of the hole was hardpan so I filled it with nice organicsoil, then compacted it down, and gave it a really good watering. It also importantto cover the area with mulch to help maintain

the moisture in the soil until the roots canget established. These will get watered every day for a couple of weeks. The actual work of planting the vines is quick.It's the preparation of digging out the rocks that takes all the time. A 30 cent Oring and a day to dismantle andreassemble the valve assembly and the backhoe is running again. I can now install the postsfor the wire arbor. It may not be the fastest backhoe, but it beats digging through therock with a pick and shovel. The holes are dug to about 4 feet which will provide a deepenough anchor to prevent the posts from leaning

from the future weight of the vines. Someof the rocks that I pulled out where bigger than the hole. If I had to dig these by hand,I probably would have only dug down a couple of feet, and then would have to anchor theposts with concrete and guywires. It seems like a really big hole for a post,but without an auger with rock drilling bit, it's probably the easiest way to set a post.A little cleanup at the bottom of the hole and it's ready. I'm using 4x4 treated lumberrated for direct burial. I'm not a fan of using treated lumber, but in order for itto last a long time, it's a necessary evil. I like to add two temporary cleats to thepost to help support it while I'm set it plumb

and backfill the hole. I also like to dropa few rocks around the base to hold it in place when I start to fill it in. I'll fillthe hole several inches at a time and compact it between each layer, then clean up the areawith some more woodchip mulch. The first wire starts roughly 4246 inchesfrom the ground and the second and 3 wires are spaced 12 inches apart. It will be theperfect snacking height for the deer. At each marking I'll drill a 38quot; hole through thepost and then put in a 516quot; eyebolt. The back side has a large fender washer and nut.Having a large washer will help to keep the nut from pulling into the post under the weightof the vines. It's fairly important to make

How to Prune Grapes Summer

Hi, I'm Tricia, a California organic gardener and today we're going to talk about summer maintenance for your table grapes we've had an extremely wet season thisyear and my table grapes have gone bonkers I'm growing four different types of tablegrapes here and there's a lot of vegetative growth making for a very densecanopy over the grape vines earlier in the spring, the shoots were thinned when they were about six to twelve inches long you should have about six to eightshoots per foot of canopy at the same time as thinning the shoots, I also cut the suckers off at the trunk

and i'm going to continue to trim these suckers throughout the season, as necessary you see there's not enough sunlight getting into this little fruit clusters the sunlight is what helps improve theflavor and the quality of the fruit by having so much foliage around thecluster, I'm also at risk for disease the first step is to take these long shoots and tuck them into the trellising and keep them out of the fruiting zone that helped a lot but you can see there'sstill a lot of hanging vines I'm going to trim back this shoot that has no clusters on it

if you're going to trim back a shoot that has clusters, be sure and leave about 1517 fullsized leaves before you make your cut cut as little as possible and try to cut atthe point where the leaves are half the size of the mature leaves these smaller leaves haven't startedproducing food yet so the vine won't miss them as much asit would miss these larger food producing leaves the grape vines are looking a lot better the cutting is going to stimulate the growth so you don't want to do this too late in the season if the fruit is just beginning to ripen,it's too late to cut

now that I've tamed the vines, it's time to thin the fruit cluster thin when the fruit has just setand before it gets too big for goodsized table grapes leave onecluster per shoot in order to improve the size of thegrapes, snip off the very bottom of the cluster I'm happy to have completed my summermaintenence on my table grape vines now I look forward to grape jam, grape jelly,grape juice, and those frozen grape treats so enjoy your grape vines and Grow Organic for Life!.

How to Make a Ferrero Rocher Chocolate Tree

Today, I want to show how you can make thisFerrero Rocher Chocolate tree. These are very easy to build and make a great centerpiece. Here's what you'll need to get started:Find a container that's roughly 6 inches tall and 6 inches wide at its largest diameterGet a 34inch wooden rod that's at least 18 inches longAnd a 6 inch Styrofoam ball A small bag of readytouse concrete mixPaint to decorate the rod A water based craft sealer like this ModPodge Brushes to spread the paint and glueGold tissue paper, the kind used in gift

wrapA box of round toothpicks And best of all, the Ferrero Rocher chocolates.You'll need about a hundred , but be sure to get extra because some always end up missing. To begin building the tree, mark and cut thewooden rod at 18 inches. Both ends are hidden, so don't worry if the cut isn't perfect. Usinga standard size rod you'll end up with two matching pieces. Next, begin to paint the rod.or the tree'strunk. For the base coat I recommend gold metallic paint. Notice that about 2 or 3 incheson each end doesn't need to be painted and

can be used for support. Once the basecoat dries, spongeon dark brownpaint to add contrast and create depth. Together, all these colors work well to compliment thechocolate's packaging. If you have a 12inch drill bit, use it,but otherwise use a kitchen knife to carve a ½inch round hole in the Styrofoam. Makethe hole 3 inches deep, and use the left over rod to finish out the hole. Using the natural folds in the tissue paper,find the intersection nearest the center of the sheet. Refold the sheet, and use a penand piece of string to mark a 9½ inch arc

on the paper. Cut the folded paper on thisline, and when unfolded, the 9½ inch radius will reveal a 19 inch circular sheet of paper.theperfect size to wrap the 6 inch ball. Next, cut 8 slits into the circle. Make thecuts halfway to the center of the circle and equally spaced. Place the Styrofoam ballon the center of the circle with the hole facing up. Use a brush to spread the glue onto the sectionof the tissue paper. Carefully wrap the paper onto the sphere while forming the end of thesection into the hole of the sphere. Working on opposite sides, continue to glue and wrapthe sections towards the hole. Try to keep

the sections as flat and tight as possibleon the sphere.only compressing the paper together as it gets closer to the opening.Tuck the very end of the section into the hole as you finish each piece. Continue working around the ball on oppositesides as much as possible. The last sections will overlap the earlier pieces resultingin a wellblended pattern. I've time compressed this whole sequence so you could get an ideaof exactly what's involved in putting the whole piece together. Although this scene is playing back very fast,it's the same technique overandover. It

isn't difficult to do and doesn't take verylong. In fact, this whole scene took about 5 minutes to shoot. And don't forget, a moistpaper towel works well to remove any unwanted glue. When all of the sections have been completed,reinsert the rod into the opening to reshape the hole and to secure the ends. From here,just add a coat of sealer to the entire exterior of the sphere. It dries completely clear andit keeps everything together and strengthens the paper. While it dries, you can continueworking on the base of the tree. Once the paint on the rod is dry, attach apiece of string with a tack or a hook.

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