Grape Seedling For Sale

Umbrella Kniffin System for Growing Grapes

David Handley: I'm David Handley, with theUniversity of Maine Cooperative Extension, and we're here to talk about pruning grapes.Very simple system for farnorthern production. Here in Maine, we need to protect the vinesas best we can through the winter, but at the same time try to get enough light andexposure to the canes that we're going to get good fruit set, and good fruit quality. One of the systems you can use for labruscatype or concord type grapes, which are the ones that do best here in Maine, which isthe umbrella kniffin. As opposed to the four arm kniffin, the umbrella kniffin puts allof its canes up at the top, or the first year

growth that's going to fruit. What we're talking about with cane growthhere is one yearold growth that has a chocolate brown color, and nice smooth bark with budson it. We're going to be saving four canes, plus the permanent trunk, to give us all ofour fruiting structure. Everything else is going to be coming off of here, and that includesanything that fruited last year. You can tell the two yearold canes, or thecanes that fruited last year, because they'll be thicker, and they'll have gray, peelingbark. All of these are going to come off, and we're going to save the one yearold canewith the chocolate brown color, and the smooth

bark. The first step in pruning is to look at ourpermanent trunk and remove all of the two yearold growth, the growth that fruited lastyear, saving a few canes that we'll be using for fruiting this year. Our first step isto cut some of these off, looking at that older bark there. We just cut that out, getit right out of there. This will open up the planting, and that twoyearold wood is not going to fruit. Unless we take it out, we'll find that our fruitingwood gets further and further away from the trunk. Part of the reason we're pruning isto keep that fruiting wood concentrated right

near the trunk. With the umbrella kniffin, which is what we'repruning to here, we're only going to maintain four of those fruiting canes. We want themall concentrated near the top of the trunk, or the top wire on our twowire trellis. We'regoing to take each of the canes that remain behind. As you can see here, here's my nicefruiting cane, smooth bark. All these are buds that are going to breakand give us long, green shoots that will have bunches of grapes on them. We're going todrape them over the top wire, and then we're going to attach them to the bottom wire, togive you that kind of quot;umbrellaquot; look, thus

the name of the system called the quot;umbrellakniffin.quot; Then we're going to cut off the ends of thecanes, so that there's only about 10 buds on each one. We just count those from thetrunk. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10. If I need to leave one ortwo on there to make it reach the bottom wire, that's fine. I'll just go to where I can attachthis to the bottom wire, like that. I need two for the other side, to completeour umbrella. You can see this leaves me with several other fruiting canes, and I need tosave some of those as well, but they don't need to be as long. What I'm calling theseare quot;renewal spurs,quot; because we need the buds

from these shoots to come out and give uscane that we'll be able to put up on the wire next year. For every fruiting cane that I'm leaving behind,I also need to cut some renewal cane, or renewal spurs, to provide us with fruiting wood fornext year. I just cut these back to one or two buds, and if they're not where I wantthem I can cut them off completely. But for every fruiting cane, I need to leave at leastone renewal spur. I tend to leave a couple of extra renewalspurs here in Maine, because I'm very sensitive to the fact that I'm likely to get winterinjury almost every year.

Tomato Plant Profile Juliet Roma Grape

in the plant profile seriestoday we will see the Juliet tomato A very prolific variety of tomato That's a lot of fun to grow in your garden As a part of this tutorial I also wanted toshare one tip That some of you had actually asked about Is how I water my containers So this is what I do I take a quarter inch tubing

Connect it to a barbed tee And then I just run a soaker hosearound it So that way what happens iswhen the water supply is turned on The soaker hose evenly waters the container By using a garden clip you can secure it And now it comes to the part of Planting the tomato plant Now I know a lot of people might give youtips like plant

the actual plant very deep so that itsends out a lot of roots it's actually true But the plant itself is prolific that evenif you do not really plant it deep beep Just like that is good enough Believe me it will send outa very dense root system You can see that about two weeksafter planting the plant has grown really well

Strong stems, great leaves Its a good start The support that I usedfor this tomato plant is The tomato trellis from Grotall and you can click on this tutorial link To see other a review of that cage So in about 20 days of planting you cansee that the plant has grown really well

The Juliet tomato plant is one of themost prolific growing tomato plants I've ever experienced They grow great in this warm California summer And as you can see this plant has alreadystarted forming some nice fruits here The look pretty small but they will grow insize The Juliet tomato produces Fruits or tomatoes that are calledGrape Tomatoes

And grape tomatoes are generally on thesweeter side But for the Juliet plant I did find thatthe taste was not extremely sweet And you will see all the details of this plant Towards the end of this tutorial When you see it the plant Chart So the rated maturity period for theJuliet tomato Is about 75 to eighty Daysafter planting

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