Grape Farming In South Africa Pdf

Growing Grapes

We have plenty of wild concord grapes on ourproperty. However, the insurance company doesn't approve of our harvesting methods so it'sprobably best to plant some cultivated grapes. When I cleared the land for the greenhouse,it left plenty of area to plant various fruit producing plants which don't need the greenhouseto thrive. Plus why waste the space just growing grassé Taking a look at my 3rd grade drawing skills,I'm going to set three 4x4x10' treated posts 34 feet into the ground and space them 24'apart. This will allow for 8 plants in the space. Then I'll string 12 gauge galvanizedwire starting with the first wire 4246quot; from

the ground, then space the other two 12quot; apart.The plants can be spaced 6' apart and over time the vines can be trained along the 3wires. I had planned to set the posts first in theevent that I hit any large rocks while digging, however I blew a seal on the backhoe and hadto find some parts for it. So I took my chances and put the plants in first. The row shouldgo in a straight line and a 100' tape measure works well for marking out the locations ofeach post and plant. Jamming a piece of survey's tape at each mark does the trick. We're goingoldschool and using a pickaxe and shovel and digging a hole about 1 foot deep. Luckilythere weren't any large rocks in the way just

a few roots and small stones that the pickaxewas able to pluck out. Later, looking at the post holes, you'll see why I didn't dig themby hand. Planting the vines is fairly easy. I got theseseedless concord grapes from Gurney's for half price. I just remove the fiber that'sused for keeping the roots damp, spread out the roots a bit, and set it in the hole sothat all the roots that emerge from the vine will be just below the finished level of thesoil. All the dirt that came out of the hole was hardpan so I filled it with nice organicsoil, then compacted it down, and gave it a really good watering. It also importantto cover the area with mulch to help maintain

the moisture in the soil until the roots canget established. These will get watered every day for a couple of weeks. The actual work of planting the vines is quick.It's the preparation of digging out the rocks that takes all the time. A 30 cent Oring and a day to dismantle andreassemble the valve assembly and the backhoe is running again. I can now install the postsfor the wire arbor. It may not be the fastest backhoe, but it beats digging through therock with a pick and shovel. The holes are dug to about 4 feet which will provide a deepenough anchor to prevent the posts from leaning

from the future weight of the vines. Someof the rocks that I pulled out where bigger than the hole. If I had to dig these by hand,I probably would have only dug down a couple of feet, and then would have to anchor theposts with concrete and guywires. It seems like a really big hole for a post,but without an auger with rock drilling bit, it's probably the easiest way to set a post.A little cleanup at the bottom of the hole and it's ready. I'm using 4x4 treated lumberrated for direct burial. I'm not a fan of using treated lumber, but in order for itto last a long time, it's a necessary evil. I like to add two temporary cleats to thepost to help support it while I'm set it plumb

and backfill the hole. I also like to dropa few rocks around the base to hold it in place when I start to fill it in. I'll fillthe hole several inches at a time and compact it between each layer, then clean up the areawith some more woodchip mulch. The first wire starts roughly 4246 inchesfrom the ground and the second and 3 wires are spaced 12 inches apart. It will be theperfect snacking height for the deer. At each marking I'll drill a 38quot; hole through thepost and then put in a 516quot; eyebolt. The back side has a large fender washer and nut.Having a large washer will help to keep the nut from pulling into the post under the weightof the vines. It's fairly important to make

How To Build Your Own Strawberry Tower

Hello everyone.One of the top requests I get is how to build a strawberry tower. This tutorial will displayall the necessary steps to build your own. The first step is to place a mark on eachend of the pipe, then rotate it 180 degrees and mark the other end. Then snap a line downthe entire length of the pipe. You could also use a straight edge to mark a line, but Ifind the chalk line to be more accurate and easier. Turn the pipe over and snap a secondline down the opposite side. Along each chalk line you will place a seriesof marks. Starting at 2 inches, draw a mark every 8 inches. This will be the spacing betweeneach pocket in the tower. If you are going

to grow plants that need more root area, setthe spaces further apart. I typically replace the strawberry plants every season. If theygrow for more than one season, they can become rootbound.Starting at the first set of marks, draw a line from one mark and connect it to the markon the opposite side. Then turn the pipe 180 degrees and connect the next series of marks.Continue rotating the pipe while connecting each series of marks. These lines will beused for cutting the slots in the tower. Along each cut mark, carefully cut throughthe pipe until you reach the measured mark you placed at the chalk line. Do not cut throughmore than half the pipe! Rotate the pipe 180

degrees and cut the next slot. When you aredone, each slot should be on the opposite side of the previous slot.Time for some good gloves. The pipe doesn't become flexible until it is well above theboiling temperature of water. Please be careful! The general area that will be heated willbe an arch shape starting at one end of the slit, up about 8 inches to the back side ofthe neighboring slit and then back down to the other end of the slit. Heating PVC should be done in a well ventedarea. If you overheat it, it can release some nasty gases. Please be careful! Continuouslymove the heat around the arched area. Try

to avoid heating the area below the slit tokeep the pipe from bending too much. After a few minutes, the PVC will become soft.It helps to apply a little extra heat at the each edge of the slit since this is wherethe sharpest bend will be. Push in the PVC so it makes a concave shapein the arched area. You will want to push it in enough so that it will touch againstthe back wall, but not create a seal since the water will need to trickle through thatarea, but don't leave too big of a gap so your growing media will fall through it. Whenyou let go of the pipe, it will usually spring back a little, leaving a gap around ¼�.I found it to be very helpful to use a few

springclamps to hold the tight bends in placewhile the plastic is cooling. You will want to hold the shape in place for a couple ofminutes while it is cooling. It takes me about 3 12 minutes to completlycreate each pocket. When you are done, you will have some nicepockets alternating on each side of your new tower.As the water flows through the tower, the surface tension in the water can cause itto flip out of the edge of the slit. To correct this, I added a collar around each pocket.With some extra pipe, cut some rings about 1 ½� wide. Then remove enough of the ringso when it's placed over the slit area,

it extends just beyond the slit. Add somesilicone adhesive and clamp the ring in place. Half of the ring should be placed above theslit line. Use clamps to hold it in place until it cures.If you're not going to be draining directly into a sump tank, you'll need a way to catchthe water from your towers. Take a 4� cap and add a fitting to it. Drill a 78� holeand thread it with a ¾� tap. There are several ways of adding fittings, but I foundthis to be very cost effective method. Take a ¾� NPT to barbed fitting and screwit into the tap. If it is screwed in far enough, it will be higher than the base of the cap.This work well to help any media that as fallen

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